About Leh Ladakh
The main town of the
region, is dominated by Sengge Namgyal's nine-storey Palace, a building in
the grand tradition of Tibetan architecture, said to have inspired the
famous Potala in Lhasa, which was built half a century later. Above it, on
Namgyal Tsemo, the peak overlooking the town, are the ruins of the earliest
royal residence at Leh, a fort built by King Tashi Namgyal in the 16th
century. The associated temples remain intact, but they are kept locked
except during the morning and evening hours when a monk toils up the hills
from Sankar Gompa to attend to the butter-lamps in front of the images.
Down in the bazaar, the main sites to visit are the Jo-khang, a
modern ecumenical Buddhist temple, and the imposing mosque dating from the
late 17th century almost opposite. But the pleasures of Leh are not confined
to the purposeful visiting of sites. For locals and visitors alike, a stroll
along the main bazaar, observing the varied crowd and peering into the curio
shops is an entrancing experience.
A particularly charming sight
is the line of women from nearby villages sitting along the edge of the
footpath with baskets of fresh vegetables brought for sale to town's people.
Chang Gali, behind the main bazaar, is less bustling but has intriguing
little shops selling curious and jewelry; and further on is the labyrinthine
alleyways and piled-up houses of the old city, cluttering around the foot of
the palace hill.
In the other direction, down from the bazaar,
are the stalls of the Tibetan traders where you can bargain for pearls,
turquoise, coral, malachite, lapis lazuli and many other kinds of
semi-precious stones and jewelry, as well as curiously carved yak-horn
boxes, quaint brass locks, china or metal bowls, or any of a whole array of
curious. When you're tired of strolling, you can step into any of several
restaurants, some of them in the open air- in gardens, or on the sidewalk -
which serve local, Tibetan, Indian and Continental cuisine.
Or
you can strike off away from the bazaar, past Zangsti, the old coppersmith's
quarte, past the Moravian Church to the Ladakh Ecological Centre. From here
there is a footpath across the fields to Sankar Gompa- a half an hour walk.
Or you can leave the main road from the bazaar near the Moravian
Church and turn off to Changspa, an attractive village, and practically a
suburb of Leh, lying below the hill on which stands the modern Ladakh Shanti
Stupa, accessible by a winding road. Down past the Tourist Information
Centre in the Dak-Bungalow Complex, you can follow the Fort road to Skara,
another pretty and prosperous suburb of Leh town, and admire the earthen
ramparts of Zorawar Singh's Fort, now housing army barracks. This road
continues onward, swinging around the periphery of the village to meet the
main highway near a crossroads where the roads from Srinagar and Manali
meet. A side road taking off from here traverses the interior of Skara to
meet the main highway near the airport, an excellent drive through the heart
of the sprawling village.
Too far for a stroll, not far enough
to be called a trek, there are several attractive destinations within a
10-kms radius of Leh. Sabu, a charming village with a small gompa, nestles
between two southward-stretching spurs of the Ladakh range about 9km away.
In the same direction, but nearer town, is Choglamsar, with the Tibetan
refugee settlement including a child's village, a handicrafts centre devoted
largely to carpet-weaving, and the Dalai Lama's prayer-gournd, Jiva-tsal.
Some 8km on the Srinagar road is the turning for Spituk Gompa, and village.
On of the gompa's main features is the chapel dedicated to the Goddess Tara,
with twenty-three images of her various manifestations.
Ladakh
Travel Guide Ladakh is a land like no other. Bounded by two
of the world's mightiest mountain ranges, the Great Himalaya and the
Karakoram, it lies athwart two other, the Ladakh range and the Zanskar
range.
In geological terms, this is a young land, formed only a
few million years ago by the buckling and folding of the earth's crust as
the Indian sub-continent pushed with irresistible force against the
immovable mass of Asia. Its basic contours, uplifted by these unimaginable
tectonic movements, have been modified over the millennia by the opposite
process of erosion, sculpted into the form we see today by wind and water.
Yes, water! Today, a high -altitude desert, sheltered from the
rain-bearing clouds of the Indian monsoon by the barrier of the Great
Himalaya, Ladakh was once covered by an extensive lake system, the vestiges
of which still exist on its south -east plateaux of Rupshu and Chushul - in
drainage basins with evocative names like Tso-moriri, Tsokar,a nd grandest
of all, Pangong-tso. Occasionally, some stray monsoon cluds do find their
way over the Himalaya, and lately this seems to be happening with increasing
frequency. But the main source of water remains the winter snowfall. Dras,
Zanskar and the Suru Valley on the Himalaya's northern flank receive heavy
snow in winter; this feeds the glaciers whose meltwater, carried down by
streams, irrigates the fields in summer. For the rest of the region, the
snow on the peaks is virutally the only source of water. As the crops grow,
the villagers pray not for rain, but for sun to melt the glaciers and
liberate their water. Usually their prayers are answered, for the skies are
clear and the sun shines for over 300 days in the year.
Ladakh lies at altitudes ranging from about 9,000 feet (2750m) at Kargil to
25,170 feet (7,672m) at Saser Kangri in the Karakoram. Thus summer temperatures
rarely exceed about 27 degree celcuis in the shade, while in winter they may
plummet to minus 20 degree celcuis even in Leh. Surprisingly, though, the thin
air makes the heat ofthe sun even more intense than at lower altitudes; it is
said that only in Ladakh can a man sitting in the sun with his feet in the shade
suffer from sunstroke and frostbite at the same time!
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